Since the last few weeks I was doing some experiments to have a better TinyWhoop and to improve my flights. So I ended up with 3 builds that you could do yourself with exiting parts that you have. Forgot EVERYTHING about your current TinyWhoop, you are on the right page to have the TinyWhoop of your dream ;)
This page is dedicated to build the best freestyle/race tinywhoop. So you will find some build examples and the top parts.
This build is mainly for freestyle, you could probably use it for indoor on a race track, but if you use the KingKong props (65mm), they are a little bit too fragile on impact.
Inspired from the ToothPick created Kabab, it is a more generic one: "The DragonFly".
It is based on a MR103 carbon frame (from Momo Racer), with some custom changements, so you end up with many possibilities to build it. You can reuse all the existing TinyWhoop (TinyLeader, BetaFPV, Trashcan, UR65, UK65, Mobula7, ...), or buy new one if you don't have any.
The frame + Canopy + LIPO Holder
Let's talk about the frame, it is a 2mm carbon that can handle all the existing parts of tinywhoop:
- 06XX / 08XX / 11XX motors on the same frame MR103
- FC AIO 28.5 (All crazybee F3/F4 board), 16x16 stack, 20x20 stack
- Up to 65mm props but definitevely the KingKong 65mm props. It is a 1mm shaft, so be ready to drill them with an 1.4mm drill.
- RaceWire or ThugWire will be important if the wire of your motors are too short http://miniquadfpv.com/product/thugwires-machined-racewire-extenders/ (it will be the case with the motors from the Beta75 Pro 2 for example).
The canopy is really a key part of this build. You need to have something that will handle strong crash, and protect very well your electronics efficiently. Of course the canopy must be very light.
The canopy must also optimize as much as possible your current build, like the VTX for example to improve the signal.
For that I modified an existing canopy that have the main features. This canopy can handle Caddx EOS2 camera but it will works also perfectly with existing camera/vtx.
I added some hole to add 45 degrees of angle for the antenna to optimise the signal, and extra holes for the beta85x frame for the racing version.
I did some TPU LIPO Holder because I think elastics are not durable and strong enough. Moreover straps doesn't fit this kind of build. But a simple TPU LIPO Holder will maintain perfectly your 1S or 2S LIPO.
You can get them on thingeverse.
Basically you will need the frame and this canopy/lipo holder and also some extra things like:
- 4 x M2 10mm screw
- 4 x M2 steeel locknut
- 4 x M2 standoff (6/8mm)
- 4 rubber dampers for the FC (you should have already some with your current tinywhoop)
1S build (or how to use again your UR65)
For example if you got a 1S brushless whoop (i.e: UR65/UK65/US65) that you would like to switch. You can swap directly your FC + VTX Camera in the canopy and the motors.
The final build will be 27g and 36g with an 1S LIPO (300mah) (in this photo it is with 0802 motors, so the weight with 06XX should be a little bit less):
It is clearly not the same quad that you will have, much more fun and more long flights compared to the existing build. You can really use it to have some fun for freestyle:
Now I switched a BetaFPV 75 Pro 2 (FC + VTX) to this frame with FullSpeed 1103 motors. I got a build around 37g (and 60g with a 2S 300mah, 70g with a 2S 450mah):
It is really super fast and powerfull for outside. You can do really whatever you want and you don't have the feeling to flight with a 2S LIPO:
I love this build for indoor race track, it is pretty strong and really speed. It is like the ShutterBug85 with some modifications:
- A Beta85X Frame
- A Crazybee F3/F4 board AIO
- 1103 motors
- A modified and light TPU canopy that you can attach by using the extra holes on the frame (not the same as the FC)
- a 2S LIPO TPU holder
- Emax AVAN 2 inch
My only advice is to use a 2S > 300 mah, like the GNB 2S 450mah because EVAN 2 inch props will drain a lot your LIPO ;)
These parts are the best to use with the MR103 frame or similar frame, and the modified canopy/lipo holder, but you could use it with all existing kit too.
Here the best FC+ESC boards to use if you don't have any existing board:
- Crazybee F4 Pro V2 4.3g
- Crazybee F4 Pro 4.2g/44$
- F4 2S AIO from BetaFPV: 4.5g/40$ (bonus: you can have RX directly integrated via SPI (FrSky/Futaba))
- HappyModel 1102 9000KV 10000KV 13500KV 2.8g
- AMAXinno 1103 7500KV 1-2S 3.8g
- AMAXinno 1103 5000KV 1-3S 3.7g
- FullSpeed 1103 11000KV 1-3S 3.2g
- BetaFPV 1103 11000KV 1-2S 3.24g
- AIO VTX+CAMERA 700 TVL, 25mW 3g
- the AIO Camera VTX in the Beta75 Pro 2 from BetaFPV 2.9g (not sure how to get it separately)
- GNB 2S 450mah)
- [GNB 2S 300mah]
TPU Canopy + LIPO Holder
Canopy for DragonFly:
Canopy for HorseFly:
- TPU 100% infill
You could be interested by similar frame, here the best: